Saturday, 14 January 2017

Week 1 - Day 5







So Fil and I met in the middle of the night (6:30am) and headed out to Montsalvat.  When we arrived at about 7:15am Chris was already in the workshop – but he hadn’t had a cup of tea so he could not have been there long!  This building a guitar routine really is a bit like going to work – walk in, say g’day and then crack on with whatever it is that you are doing.  However, today was always going to be a special day in that our ‘quality control’ officers are arriving in the late afternoon for a progress inspection. 


Cracking On – My Sides  . . .

Perhaps that is a bad metaphor . . . but my first task for the day was to stand back and admire my successfully bent sides.  It seems my failure rate has just dropped from 100% to 66% - so that is a marked improvement!  Once the veneration session was done, I marked where the sides were in the mould (there is quite a bit of excess material).

The next step involved squaring the ends from the flat (not curved sides).  In other words, the square needs to be taken from the ‘top’ side (and not the curved bottom).  Once it was all marked up I chopped off the excess wood with a Japanese hand saw.

Still clamped in the mould

Off with the end

Job done

Head/Tail Block . . .

The next task involved gluing and clamping blocks of wood (Queensland Maple) behind the joins at both ends of the guitar sides.  It needs to be remembered that each block has been cut at a 4 degree angle sloping upwards to the middle of the guitar.  Fortunately, I didn’t make the mistake of gluing them the wrong way around.  The sides were all clamped up again ready for some more work later in the day.

You really need four hand to do this

Tail block done

Neck block also done
Looking good

The Pace is Increasing . . .

Now it was on to my rosette.  For all the normal people who are still reading this, a rosette is a totally pointless decorative circle around the sound hole of the guitar.  Its purpose is entirely ornamental as it makes no acoustic difference at all.  That said, there are some ‘conventions’ about rosettes that are respected by most people.

The accepted ‘norm’ for steel stringed guitars (like the ones we are building) is a 10mm gap between the sound hole and the rosette – and as a ‘rule’ the rosette is 15mm wide.  Classical guitars have a much wider rosette and it typically comes much closer to the sound hole.  You won’t be surprised to know that Fil didn’t respect either traditions – he just did what he thought looked good!

So I cut my piece of Fiddleback Blackwood down to a more manageable size of 150mm by 150mm.  The next step involved finding the right spot on the wood for the rosette and then drilling a hole in the middle of where it would be created.

Next step was to get out the Dremel board.  This a piece of particle board about a metre by a metre with a conveniently placed lug on which to place the Dremel attachment.

Drill the wood and use double sided tape to hold it in place

And then some double sided tape
Start slow, shallow and slow

Looking good - and then the Dremmel packed it in
Dremel . . .

Perhaps it is appropriate to chat about the handy little Dremel machine.  They are a marvellous invention and to luthiers they have become a verb, much like Hoover has in the UK.  Simply ask someone to ‘Dremel that down’ and you will be perfectly understood by other guitar makers.  According to Fil, they are one of the most essential pieces of kit in an instrument maker’s workshop.  Although they were invented in 1932 (by Albert J Dremel – but now owned by Bosch), they look pretty much the same as they ever did.

However, they are also known to go kaput or fail in other ways.  Given the Perry curses on my guitar sides, this stunning little machine chose my job to give up the ghost.  Chris had to shoot down to Bunnings (hardware joint) to get another one.  And he had yet another dead one laying around the workshop.

New Dremel


1947 advertisement for the Dremel Moto-Tool
Back to the Rosette . . .



Then it was time to get out the new but equally unforgiving Dremel machine and start hacking into the Blackwood.  The trick is to start in the middle of the ‘to be’ routed area at a shallower depth than required to cut through wood.  Once started, work towards the desired lines from the inside.  Once at the required rosette diameter start adjusting the Dremel down until it cuts through onto the Dremel board.  All of that needs to be done twice – for the inside and outside diameters of the rosette.


Back to the rosette again

Both sides being cut

That's about it

How about that!

The colours are going to work well

Installing the Rosette . . .



The next task involved using the same gear to route a channel in the top of the guitar and install the rosette.  You sort of need to take a deep breath before you say that – this has the potential to go horribly wrong (just ask Fil about resetting the depth of the router!) for the installation of a totally useless piece of wood from an acoustic point of view.


Sound Hole . . .



Although the sound hole is cut out later, the obvious reference point for the rosette is the absolutely true and correct centre of the sound hole.  This is point is measured exactly 155mm down from the neck end of the guitar shape – and then checked twice more before drilling a hole through the top!

Rosette Channel . . .

I now need to route a 2mm channel in the face of my guitar top!  As with the rosette itself, routing is started in the waste area between the marked channel.  Because we are routing circles, it is only necessary to mark the circle in one spot – and that is done in the ‘safety zone’ closest to where the neck will be installed.  And you always start with test cuts and router resets in the this zone as well as any slips here will be covered by the neck – which will run all the way down to the sound hole.  Have a guess where Fil made his little ‘slip’ – his whole life is in the danger zone!

Once an appropriate depth is set on the router, it is then adjusted so the blade moves towards the desired line little by little – small cuts are important so as not to rip the wood.  The process is then reversed to cut out the other side of the channel.

Gaging the final width of the channel is down entirely in the ‘safety zone’ until of bit of the rosette tightly fits into the channel.  Finally the entire circle is cut and the rosette squeezed into the channel for a test fit.  Once everything looked good it was glued into place and various clamps used to hold it down.

This is serious stuff!

Proceeding with care

Done

Trial install of the rosette

Ready for gluing
Other Workshopers . . .

As previously mentioned, Chris’ workshop has a constant flow of formal and informal visitors.  Today we had three other blokes who are at various stages of building their guitars.  Laurance returned (he was there the other day) and he managed to get his top fitted and glued – and left a happy man.

Bob and Garry were also working on their instruments.  Garry is building a classical guitar (nylon strings) and spent most of the day struggling to align his neck.  The first problem that the head was 8mm out of alignment.  He managed to fix that but noticed that the other plane is out of wack.  So he still has quite a bit of work to do to get that right.

Bob spent most of the day working on this neck.  His is a steel string guitar and he is interested in playing quite a bit of slide guitar.  But his immediate challenge is to get the neck and heel nice and smooth with hours and hours of sanding.

Bob working on his neck
Garry still trying to align his neck

A study in concentration

Back to the Thicknesser . . .

My favourite machine beckoned me across the passageway once more . . . my task was to very carefully take any proud areas of the rosette away without ‘thicknessing’ the sound board any more.  So it was a slow and careful job – which took about 30 minutes or so.

Another trick of the trade was revealed here.  It is important to measure the distance from the top (of the wood) to where the marked guitar outline starts.  This is because we need to re-draw the guitar shape again (from the mould) in EXACTLY the same place it was.

Taking it down VERY carefully

Sound Hole . . .



Now it is time to actually cut out the sound hole . . . which meant using the Dremel once again.  It is important to mark the top of the guitar in the safety zone.  And no matter what, the sound hold is going to be 100mm – according to one of Chris’ traditions.  I judiciously marked up the right measurement in the safety zone and carefully dropped the Dremel little by little until the middle piece came clear.


Drill a hole in the middle of the top!

Start short and move up to the line

Drop the depth little by littl

There you go
Marking Out the Bracing . . .

My next major task was to mark out the location for each of the braces on the back of the top.  A similar principle to the guitar back applies here – it is important to leave as much of the wood to vibrate freely while giving the instrument sufficient structural integrity.  And while it all appears rather scientific and precise, I suspect it is yet another dark art from the annals of luthiery.

To lay out the braces I first needed a reference point.  Using a special scale ruler (as in scale length and designed for making guitars), the precise distance from the 14th fret to the top of the bridge is marked – exactly in the middle.  A mock bridge is placed in location xxmm from the top of the outline of the guitar (need to check the rest with Chris so I can write down).

An outline is drawn around the X-Braces and the four Finger braces (see below) are then marked onto the back of the top. 

Re-mark the outline of the guitar shape

Using the scale ruler - mark the position of the bridge

Using a complex formula - mark out the location of the X-braces and Finger braces

Looks good

Ready to glue


Glue and clamp

Shaping the Braces . . .

As with the back of the guitar, the X-Braces need to be sanded to match the proposed curve of the top of the guitar.  So I spent about 45 minutes sanding the braces in the top dish to get the right shape.

The next job involved making a join so the X-bracing could interlock.  Unfortunately the marking that Chris gave me were a little bit out, so I had to do some trickery to force them into place so they could be glued into place.

Don't cut one X-brace too short like I did!

Shaping the brace

Notch the two braces for joining

Check it fits - which mine didn't

Once sorted - glue it all down
More Hot Pipe . . .



The bending iron is known as the ‘hot pipe’ in this workshop – and it is my least favourite tool in the joint!  My next task involved taking some of the stress out of my sides by rolling them around the hot pipe and quickly clamping them into place – and then doing it again and again.


My friend the hot pipe

Quality Assurance Examination . . .

The entire workshop was in trepidation waiting for the visit from our two Quality Control experts.  Those who were silly enough to read my last guitar building blog would know that we were making application to join the Ancient Order of Luthiers – and there was quite a process attached to that.  I am pleased to say that while our instruments met the standards, Fil and I have so far failed the ‘fit and proper person’ test for admission.  Being a fine upstanding young man, Patrick is probably already a Fellow of the Ancient Order by now, but Fil’s and my applications are still ‘pending’.  That said, we agree with Groucho Marks who famously said “I don't care to belong to any club that will have me as a member".

This is one of the reasons we chose to come to the colonies and seek membership of the much lesser Oz society of luthiers . . . the Federation of Antipodean Guitar Structuralists (FAGS).  The Ancient Order refuses to let us convicts use the term ‘luthier’ – even though we have reminded them it is in fact a French word.  Suzi and Lorraine have been given ‘referred powers’ to determine whether our instruments are up to standard.  The standard of the guitars is still good, but luckily there is no ‘fit and proper person’ test in Oz – if you can spell luthier you’re in!


Even Garry came in for an examination

Will this bloke become a FAGS

Two FAGS candidates and Chris

Fil’s Progress . . .


Fil is really getting on with his instrument in the ways he already knows how.  His soundbox is complete, except for the binding, and he has started work on cutting his neck and gluing the reversed section for the faceplate.  Luckily this was discovered early enough to make the correction.
.

Bracing done

Sound box nearly done

Starting on the neck and face plate

Quick Beer . . .



Our beer research standards and methodologies have pretty much reached rock bottom.  Rather than having to shout to be heard or being charged a King’s ransom, we had lovely Aldi beer in Fil and Suzi’s apartment this evening.  How nice it was to sit in a decent chair, talk in normal volumes and not be thinking about the $12.40 pints!











No comments:

Post a Comment